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Choose a tent wisely before a
weekend of roughing it
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The
Kelty
Mantra 7
is
Outdoor
Life
columnist
Don
Mulligan’s
choice
for the
best
family
tent.
Mulligan
says it
is an
overbuilt
dome-style
shelter
that can
take a
beating.
(Photo
by Don
Mulligan)
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The
first time a tent failed me, I
was mule deer hunting in the
Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming.
The autumn sky dumped 3 feet of
snow in 24 hours, leaving my
partner and me to dig-out all
night to prevent our cheap tent
from collapsing.
That was almost 20 years
ago, and I’d like to say I
haven’t had trouble with a tent
since. Unfortunately, I’ve been
in even worse jams, the worst of
which was just last year.
Sometimes tent failures are
the fault of the camper due to
improper set-up or site
placement, but sometimes they
fail because they are simply
made poorly. Having owned close
to 30 tents of varying size and
construction over the years,
I’ve made my share of mistakes.
Here are a couple things I’ve
learned about selecting and
constructing a tent that should
make this camping season a
little more comfortable.
When choosing a tent, first
decide when it will be used.
Four-season tents are made to
endure winter storms. They
aren’t a good choice for summer
campers, however, since they
aren’t vented very well. Two and
three-season tents are lighter,
and vented a lot. This is
critical for summer campers who
need to weather both summer
showers and the summer sun.
Next, choose a tent based on
its size. If a tent is rated for
two persons, only two people can
fit in it. Space for gear often
is not allowed. When I live in a
tent for weeks at a time in
places like the Rocky Mountains
or Alaska, I prefer an
eight-person tent for two men.
The drawback is that larger
tents are heavier than smaller
tents. That may sound obvious,
but weight is a critical factor
when the tent needs to be
packed-in or transported on a
two-man bush plane. Take as much
tent as possible, but no more
than necessary.
Lots of campers like big
tents because of the head room
they provide. Head room is a nice feature, unless there is a
lot of wind. Lower profile tents
withstand wind better than tall
ones, and dome style tents are
always superior to upright
frame-style tents in heavy
winds. Always build your tent on
the downwind side of cover, if
possible, to help break the
wind.
The tent that got me in
trouble last year was a
four-season frame-style tent
made for wilderness hunts. It
blew down one night on the
Alaska peninsula in a sustained
50-mph wind that was accompanied
by horizontal, 35-degree rain.
When we recovered from the
ordeal the next morning, we had
a dome-style tent flown in and
had no problems for the rest of
our stay.
Regardless of the season or
intended use, I only use tents
with a full rain fly that
reaches all the way to the
ground. The only exception is
when I use my one-man pack tent
to save weight. A rain fly that
only sits on top of the tent is
a joke, and should be used only
if the camper has easy access to
a building if it rains.
Serious campers should avoid
fiberglass pole-framed tents as
well. Good aluminum poles that
are shock-corded and fit into
each other are lighter and much
less likely to break. Glass
poles almost always fail where
they couple together, especially
if they need to be bent to fit
into the tent sleeves.
Here are my best and worst
picks for tents in a couple
useful categories:
One-person pack tents
Best: The Sierra Designs
Baku is a three-season tent that
weighs 3 pounds, 7 ounces. It is
rock solid, leak-proof and will
last for years. It costs around
$300.
Worst: Cabela’s North Star
Bivy has a two-hoop frame design
that sags in the middle when it
rains. It costs $60.
Large family tents
Best: The Kelty Mantra 7 is
way more tent that anyone needs
for a family outing, and I like
that. It’s first class from the
over-sized, fitted aluminum
poles, to the noiseless, tough
zippers. The huge, fully covered
vestibule is great as well. It
costs around $430.
Worst: The Eureka Tetragon
1610 is huge, but supported by
over-bent fiberglass poles.
Expect them to break at the
seams the first time out. The
fly also leaves the windows too
exposed in a rainstorm. It costs
$220.
Wilderness hunting tents
Best: The Cabela’s Outfitter
Series XWT is a four-season,
dome-style tent. Cabela’s says
it will withstand a sustained
75-mph wind. I have lived in one
in winds over 50 mph and never
felt it budge or leak. Though it
is very heavy, this is the only
base camp tent I will use on the
Alaska tundra. The 10-foot by
10-foot costs $500.
Worst: The Eureka Bomb
Shelter is a four-season tent,
made specifically for Alaska. It
is the tent that blew down on me
last year. Its upright frame is
too wobbly and unsupported and,
I now know, cannot be fixed in a
storm if it breaks. This is a
regional model and is quite
expensive.
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